Holding On for Better Bezels

Sticky Solutions

How to use sticky putty to build better bezels

By Helen I. Driggs

It’s not unusual for me to run into several common problems when fitting bezels for large or angular cabochons. Usually I have issues with holding a stone still as I struggle to fit the bezel stock tightly against the base of the cab. And because I also often work in alternative metals such as copper, brass, and nickel, the stiffness of those metals increases my bezel-fitting difficulties with issues such as twisted or warped bezel walls.

After a photographer friend recently returned some props he had borrowed, I discovered a small wad of sticky putty he had forgotten to remove from one of them. This extraordinarily sticky stuff sparked an idea for adjusting the fit and building a better bezel. And I also wound up with a bonus sticky idea as I experimented.

To try this in your shop, you’ll need some sticky putty, a roll of double-sided tape, a pristine steel bench block (to keep the putty and tape clean and prevent the materials from moving around), and some bezel wire.

1. I had some Gecko Foot putty adhesive on hand from my public school classroom, so that’s the brand I experimented with. I figured if it could hold heavy artwork on glossy painted concrete block, it should be able to hold a cabochon stone.

2. To begin, simply break off a small chunk of putty. You don’t need much as a little goes a long way.

3. Spread the putty into a thin blob on the steel bench block. Press the cabochon stone upside-down into the putty so the top surface of the cab is level and the stone sits securely.

4. For me, fitting a bezel on an upside-down stone is much easier because I can easily examine and adjust the all-important base. Getting a good fit around the base of the cabochon is critical to setting the stone well. Plus, the curved stone won’t shift or rock much once it’s been pressed into the putty.

5. If putty isn’t available, double-stick tape is another sticky solution for building angled bezels for larger cabs. First, cover the steel block with a single layer of tape.

6. Press the flat-bottomed stone onto the tape until it sticks.

7. Fit the bezel as you normally would. Notice that the wire and the stone both stay put on the tape as you progress.

8. Even sharp direction changes and acute angles are easy to hold in position because the tape simultaneously prevents the bezel wire from moving and helps it remain vertical and perpendicular to the surface of the steel block as you fit it around the stone. Marking the overlap is a breeze using this bezel fitting method.