Pantone spring color pallete rejuvinates

By Deborah A. Yonick

Hues illustrative of nature topped Pantone’s spring fashion color palette for 2021, as spied in ready-to-wear fashions launched during New York Fashion Week, which was conducted virtually in September.

The season’s palette pops with a sunny yellow hue called Illuminating, warm golden Marigold, refreshing Mint green, royal French Blue, vivid Raspberry Sorbet, and a floral-shaded Amethyst Orchid. On the cool side, the palette highlights a sky blue Cerulean, mentholated Green Ash, and creamy Burnt Coral. Uncharacteristic of a spring palette is the earthy Rust brown, an inspiring bridge color across seasons.

Pantone also called out five core classic neutrals for the season that allow for more freedom of choice: a smooth off-white Buttercream, sandy Desert Mist, silvery Ultimate Gray, blackened-blue Inkwell, and a yellow-toned mossy Willow.

Blue is expected to remain a popular color for spring fashions. Designers can stay on trend by featuring different shades of the color in unusual gemstone cuts in their pieces.

The palette combines a level of comfort and relaxation, with sparks of energy that encourage and uplift our mood, says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. The colors are versatile enough to transcend the seasons and easily adaptable to our new and fragmented lifestyle, she cites.

In a nod to the hope of brighter days ahead, Pantone, for only the second time in 22 years, announced that it had selected two colors for its 2021 Color of the Year: Illuminating and Ultimate Gray. This marks the first time a gray has earned the title, and the second time for a yellow. Pantone describes the colors as aspirational and hopeful, encapsulating deeper feelings of thoughtfulness with the promise of something sunny and friendly.

In addition to blues and greens, Stuller is seeing a renewed interest in pink gemstones that come in a range of berry shades.

“The union of an enduring Ultimate Gray with the vibrant yellow Illuminating expresses a message of positivity supported by fortitude,” says Eiseman. “Practical and rock solid but at the same time warming and optimistic, this is a color combination that gives us resilience and hope. We need to feel encouraged and uplifted; this is essential to the human spirit.”

Popular Gem Colors

Pantone’s spring color palette is certain to have anyone working with colored gemstones excited, as many of the colors have natural stone counterparts.

Among the colors expected to be most prominent for the upcoming spring season are blues and greens, with purple also hailed as a favorite. Seasonal bridge colors gray, rust, and midnight blue will also be in the mix.
Blue remains a safe bet in fashion for 2021, says Amanda Gizzi, director of public relations for Jewelers of America in New York City, with Cerulean and French Blue offering both subtle and deep color saturation seen in gems such as aquamarine and sapphire, two stones expected to shine in jewelry design this year.

Le Vian, which presented its annual trends report with fashion magazine Harper’s Bazaar virtually in September, proclaimed sapphire, in blue and fancy colors, the Gem of the Year for 2021. According to the brand, sapphire has a lot going for it, as it is available in a spectrum of colors, is the oldest and toughest of the gemstones, and has been coveted historically as a stone of protection, good fortune, and wisdom.

After blue, Gizzi considers purple a key color for spring. “After all, the purple crocus appearing through snow-dusted landscapes is an early sign of spring,” she says. Amethyst Orchid paves the way for amethyst the gemstone to be on trend in 2021, in a range of shades from Rose de France to royal purple.

Calls for purple stones have been on the rise at Stuller Inc., says Samantha Larson, director of gemstones for the Lafayette, Louisiana–based jewelry supplier. Purple sapphire, in particular, has been especially popular, as its hardness is a plus for everyday wear.

Emeralds continue to be a favorite, says Larson, who also expects to see a lot of rubies in the mix in 2021. “Their color range, however narrow, is a great complement to all the colors in the spring palette.” She anticipates a renewed interest in pink gemstones as well. But in lieu of your average pink, think more berry with flashes of lighter tones found in gems such as sapphire and spinel.

There are a number of gem varieties that offer a spectrum of hues on point with current fashion colors, as seen in the latest series by Los Angeles artist Andy “Lif” Lifschutz. His color-intense designs feature unusual shapes in aquamarine and morganite and luscious hues in garnets, tourmalines, and zircons, in proprietary cuts so vibrant they practically leap out of their settings.

Birthstone Boon

Conveniently for jewelers, many of this season’s popular hues just so happen to align with gemstones traditionally used as birthstones. Birthstones continue to be among the bestsellers in gem-set fashion and bridal design, providing an easy way for people to personalize their jewelry and still be on trend.

“The meaning behind birthstones is always treasured,” says Larson, reminding jewelers that customers are familiar and comfortable with the tradition of birthstones. But what they might not know about are some of the alternative stones for each birth month. Alexandrite, moonstone, and pearl, for example, are all birthstone options for June. Or that spinel, a recently added birthstone for August, comes in a wide range of colors.
Larson also encourages jewelers to explore different takes on traditional birthstone jewelry, such as creating ombré and rainbow patterns.

Birthstones continue to be among the bestsellers in gem-set fashion and bridal design, providing an easy way for people to personalize their jewelry and still be on trend. (Above: Ariel Gordon Jewelry)

“Why do a simple ruby band to represent your July birthday when you could opt for an ombré from lighter pinkish red to bold red—meaningful and a conversation starter,” she says. “For months with only one option, like amethyst for February, this is a great way to add an unexpected element.”

Moreover, sapphire for September doesn’t have to be in traditional blue, Larson says. “I see a lot of love for designs that cascade through the sapphire colors in a warm or cool pallet, shifting from soft greens to powdery blues or from vibrant yellow to ambitious orange-reds.”

Color Is Personal

Color is personal and deeply emotional, as Larson illustrates in describing a gemstone band she helped a client create that went from pale pink to violet and finished with bright blue—a nod to some flowers on a recent vacation. “The gradual shift between all the tones was a knockout,” she says. “It helped the customer represent a moment in time they never want to forget.”

Ariel Gordon Jewelry

Influenced by how she often wears the same pieces of jewelry for months on end, Los Angeles–based artist Ariel Gordon Maffei of Ariel Gordon Jewelry creates customizable pieces that can be layered and collected over time. Her birthstone styles are a great example—modern takes on the classic concept such as her dual birthstone rings and bracelets, stackable birthstone charm rings, birthstone dust hoops, and mini rose-cut birthstone charm necklaces.

“It’s satisfying to make something that becomes a part of a woman’s daily life,” says Maffei, who wants her collectors to feel their best when wearing her jewelry. “If you’re going to wear a piece of jewelry everyday, having a personalized element makes it feel that much more mindful.”