1. The first step is to create the main gallery for the stone. You can use round wire or square stock to create the gallery, which needs to be the same diameter and shape of the stone you’re setting. Take the wire and wrap it around a mandrel that is the same size as the stone you’re setting; in a pinch, you can also use a pencil or dowel. If the stone is an odd shape, you’ll need to manipulate the wire to the proper shape of the stone. In those cases, I usually start with a circle and then shape it with pliers. Once the wire is the right size and shape, solder it closed.

2. To create the bottom gallery, use the wire to form the same stock shape but make it smaller than the main gallery. The difference in size will affect the angle of your prongs: The larger the size difference, the more the prongs will flare. Getting the right amount of flare is also an issue of design. For example, if you’re creating a three-stone ring, you want the prongs to appear to flare out from the center of the ring.

3. Now it’s time to decide where the prongs will be placed. Do you want them centered or offset? Placement will vary with every stone. One of the best ways to get prong placement correct is to lay the stone on graph paper and draw radial lines from a center point. You can use this as a guide for both galleries. Once you’ve decided on the placement, mark and notch the spots where the prongs will lay against both the lower and upper galleries. I use a separating disc but a kraus bur or ball bur will also work.

4. Bend two wires into U shapes and solder them to the notches marked on the lower gallery. (Don’t worry about the overlap at the bottom; we’ll be removing the excess.) The tension in the U bend should allow the prongs to snap into the notches, keeping them aligned and holding them in place as you solder.

5. Fit the top gallery in place and be sure the spacing between the galleries is what you want. I often wedge a piece of scrap stock between the two galleries to secure the spacing temporarily while I solder the top in. Test fit the stone to be sure its culet won’t poke past the lower gallery where it could be damaged or cut the customer’s finger. Make sure to bend in the prongs so they fit in the notches snugly; the tighter the fit, the easier the prongs will be to solder.

6. Trim the excess prong wire so it’s flush with the bottom gallery and then polish.

7. Finally, cut the seat and set the stone.