Discover the favorite pieces of four designers—Jason Dow, Emanuela Duca, Elizabeth Garvin, Paula Crevoshay—and the reasons they love them

By Shawna Kulpa

Ask a jewelry designer to name his or her favorite creation and you’re likely to be met with a look of horror. At least, that’s what I found with many of the designers I spoke with for this article. To them, the question was initially unfathomable—something akin to being forced to name which of their children they liked the best. But in the end, they all managed to select one piece that resonated with them a little bit more than any of the others. Some designers had a soft spot for a problem child, while others favored the one that marked a turning point in their business. Still others fell in love with their newest bundle of joy. Whatever the reason, the pieces on the following pages stand out above their siblings in the hearts and minds of their parents.

As you look at these designers’ favorite pieces, think about your own collections. If you had to choose one piece (and just one piece), which would you choose as your favorite? Once you’ve identified the piece, give some thought as to why you love it so.

The answer may surprise you.

Jason Dow’s Problem Child

“It was a hard decision but I ultimately picked my Mandala Cuff. It’s a palladium hinged cuff bracelet with 6 total carats of black diamonds. It’s one of my favorites because it ended up being very technical to execute. It’s a very large piece (the largest I’ve ever made) so I needed it be light. I decided to make it in palladium, which is lightweight but difficult to cast. It was particularly difficult for this bracelet because there’s a lot of metal to melt and cast at one time. I created the model for it in CAD, getting all of the pieces to fit together nicely. I grew the model in wax and then had it cast. The casting had a lot of porosity, and it took a lot of time to clean all of it up. It should be an ‘unfavorite’ piece because it was so difficult! “I only made the bracelet once because it was such a challenge. If I made it again, I’d do things a lot different. I’d consider fabricating it instead of casting. To create the hole patterns, I’d use a laser cutter, which would help keep the precision achieved by CAD but allow me to bypass the casting process.”

Jason Dow is the owner of Jason Dow Inc. in Honolulu.

Emanuela Duca’s Turning Point

“This was a difficult decision for me since there are many designs that I like. One of my favorite pieces is my Roman cuff bracelet in blackened sterling silver with white diamonds. I designed it a few years back and I’ve always felt a strong connection to it. When I started work on the bracelet, I was conscious of what I was looking for, but the form itself was only found in the process of creating it. Its architectural shape truly reminds me of the Roman ruins without being literal. It’s more like a representation of my connection to my roots. Making this bracelet turned out to be an important process for me.

“By honoring the elements of my heritage, I was able to create a unique piece that was also appreciated by my retailers. I had found something unique to me, and that creativity helped me create a place in the marketplace for my designs. It made me realize that being different is one of the keys that open the door to the marketplace.”

Emanuela Duca is the owner of her eponymous design firm in New York City.

Elizabeth Garvin’s Newborn

“This was an easy decision for me because my favorite is my most recent piece, the Cyclone Cuff. (I think that’s true of many designers-the favorite is often the newest!) Making the cuff posed a particular challenge because the Cyclone collection’s hallmark is its wrap design, where each fabricated piece is wrapped around itself. In the case of the cuff, I didn’t want to just use the motif but wanted the owner to actually wrap it around her wrist each time she put it on. It took a full month of every spare minute I had just to make the model. It couldn’t be created in CAD because it has a specific texture that is created with a textured hammer and textured anvil made in-house. The basic form of the piece was fabricated fairly quickly. The fine details related to incorporating contrasting metals and working the hidden spring within the interior of the cuff also had to be completely fabricated, which took most of the time and attention.

“I don’t think I’ve even seen another cuff like it, and now that I’ve worked out the kinks, there are a few more pieces like it in the works!”

Elizabeth Garvin is the owner of Elizabeth Garvin Fine Jewelry in New York City.

Paula Crevoshay’s Pinnacle

“This is like asking a mother to pick a favorite child—you can’t. I guess I’d have to go with the newborn, my most recent piece (and hope my other children understand): The Bitterroot Flower pendant, featuring the state flower of Montana and set with sapphires all mined from the state. I feel the bitterroot is such a feminine beauty of a jewel. It captures the lure of the mating dance of nature with its pert stamens reaching up to seduce its pollinator. The bitterroot flower is a national treasure, and this pendant is the empress of my floral designs.

“I’ve been obsessed with capturing the captivating beauty of flora and fauna for decades now, but this piece feels like it’s marking the start of the pinnacle of my career as a jewelry designer. This piece also marks the first time I’ve used the enameling process in my jewelry. I’ve always wanted to explore enameling—I have notes about it in my sketchbooks from 25 years ago—but I’m finally getting around to it. I think I finally realized that if I didn’t start somewhere, I’d never start.”

Paula Crevoshay is the owner of Crevoshay in Albuquerque, New Mexico.