Treasure Chest: Cornelia Goldsmith

Cornelia Goldsmith’s one-of-a-kind gems

We asked designer Cornelia Goldsmith of San Francisco, What’s the coolest thing in your vault? Here’s what she had to say.

So tell us. What’s the coolest thing in your vault?

For a while now I have been gathering together a small cache of unique, artisan-cut gemstones, such as aquamarine, tourmaline, garnet, spinel, and Oregon sunstone. It’s become somewhat of an obsession, really. All are one-of-a-kind.

How long have they been under lock and key?

A few I have owned for a decade or more, although some of the more special ones were acquired in just the last two to three years. Then last year I happened upon a small grouping of Paraiba tourmalines when a jeweler friend of mine in Germany was retiring.

Why are they so cool?

Most have a kind of mystical or spiritual quality. I have been careful in selecting only very unusual cuts, most of which I would describe as flowing, organic shapes—not too geometric or angular, but rather with luscious, undulating curves.

Do you have plans for them?

With some, I know immediately what they are saying to me and how I will use them. More often, though, their essence has to slowly percolate in the subconscious realm. Fairly often they appear to me in a dream: I wake up and know exactly what they will become.

Glacier ring by Cornelia Goldsmith

The carved 7.97 carat aquamarine used in my Glacier ring tells a poignant story of a majestic glacier, slowly melting and transforming into water. The 18k white gold icicles are set with white diamonds and gradually turn to blue diamonds, symbolizing water. I borrowed from Chinese symbolism and engraved the ring shank with an icy pattern, which gives way to the flowing Chinese symbol for water. My intent was that the various elements, materials, and stones would work together synergistically.